Trout
Basics |
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Salmon
Basics |
Fly
reels especially for trout fishing are little
more than a means to store line. Most trout anglers
tend to strip line manually rather than to crank
a handle. An angler can strip in much faster than
you can wind and holding the line gives you good
feel. But there are times when you need to wind
that line in:
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You
should wind in on a salmon reel rather than strip
by hand.
Salmon will often run you out
to the backing even though the line is 10 yards
longer than for trout and you can't easily hand
strip backing which is even more likely to tangle.
Salmon reels have a bigger diameter
so they are more efficient at bringing in line.
You are also likely to be in the
water. So it is good practice to always wind when
salmon fishing. |
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Clutches |
Clutches |
If
you hand strip an expensive clutch is a waste
of time. Most trout reels have a simple click
drag or screw, which are quite adequete. If you
have a large budget then you can go for disk drags. |
You
need a decent clutch on a salmon reel. The screw
type tends to give up the ghost after heavy use
so I tend to prefer the disk drag. Some people
complain that these are inefficient if they get
wet, but I have never had that problem. |
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Gears |
Gears |
I
own up, I like simple geared reels for trout work,
but have never fallen for automatic clockwork
winders. |
Keep
it simple and keep it strong. |
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Capacity
and Weight |
Capacity
and Weight |
There
is a tendency these days to make rods and reels
ever lighter. For a rod this is fine, but I believe
that fly reels have become far too light. A rod
and reel balances around your hand, so if you
have an ultra light reel it cannot hope to balance
the rod. I like good old metal reels over graphite/carbon/plastic
and they look oversized to many eyes.
Reels should be able to hold
both your fly line and backing so that when recovered
the fly line comes right up to the lip without
snagging. A slightly oversized reel also lets
you carry more backing. If you have ever had that
monster fish take you down to the end of the backing
you will know what I mean |
For
work with a double hander think big and then go
bigger! I have seen a salmon disappear with 200
yards of backing before breaking the 20lb test
nylon tippet. Weight of the reel is immaterial
since it sits between your hands and does less
to balance the rig.
Many aficionados like to fish
with old Hardy reels. Not only do you have the
pleasure of using an antique, but they are well
engineered and are virtually indestructible. Look
for the same qualities in a modern salmon reel.
Rules for loading a salmon reel
are the same as for trout - fill it to the brim,
but not so much that it jams. |
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Spare
Spools |
Spare
Spools |
You
can get lot of flexibility from a single trout
rod reel. Chose your rod and then your reel then
buy at least 3 spare spools and lines to fit that
reel before you buy another reel. When you get
you next reel, buy the same one, that way its
all interchangeable.
Tips:
Mark your spools with the line
weight that they carry, you will save hours in
fields working out which line is which!
Reels tend to be forgotten in
the bottom of a tackle bag and can take a bashing.
It's worth investing in a proper case. |
Spare
spools are useful, but you are much more likely
to have 2 set ups for salmon fishing. A sunk line
rod and reel and a floating line rod reel. There
are far more rings to thread through on a salmon
rod so it makes a little more sense to have the
two rigs.
Tip:
One solution I like for the less
affluent among us is the loop to loop. Use a 20/30
yard straight through floating running line and
connect this to your backing. At the business
end whip in a large loop. Create a working line
from a standard salmon line by testing the correct
amount needed to load your rod and cutting it
to size. Whip another loop at the rod end of this
line. Hold these working lines on a shaped board.
When you want to change lines just reconnect via
the loops outside of the rod |
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Buying
from the States |
Maintenance |
Reels
(and much fishing tackle) is much cheaper in the
US. Most reels cost in Dollars what we pay in
Sterling. So check out some of the on-line shops.
Just be aware of tax (?), shipping, packaging
and insurance. |
Salmon
reels are expensive, so try not to be tempted
to use them for that bone fishing trip. They don't
like sea water. If you must use a freshwater reel
in the sea wash them religiously at the end of
the day. Oil gears and the pivot at the end of
the season, but keep oil away from clutches. |
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Paul's
Personal Choice |
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Paul's
Personal Choice |
My
personal choice is the J.
W. Young 1560 (geared) or if on a budget the
Leeda system 100. A nice little reel for brook
work is the Orvis
Battenkill. 3/4 |
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My
personal choice is the System2
from 3M Scientific Anglers or the Magnum
from Leeda/Cortland or if on a budget J.W. Youngs
offerings. |
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